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"How vinegar has given Filipino food a sour kick for centuries, from adobo to dipping sauce"
Cooks in the Philippines have used the 鈥榠ngredient of 2026鈥 to bring out complexity in dishes long before the condiment started trending
Tribune News Service聽 Published: 12:45pm, 6 Mar 2026
Named the 鈥渋ngredient of the year鈥 for 2026 by The New York Times, vinegar can have many uses and personalities far beyond its generic role in a salad dressing or as a decorative balsamic reduction.
You can use a splash as a finish to lentil soup or chilli to add depth. Some bartenders throw it into mocktails. Some folks use raw vinegar for its supposed health benefits. It can even be lightly sprayed onto cookies.
Long before its current moment in the spotlight, Filipinos used vinegar as an integral element in their cooking.
Chef Rafael Vencio, who was born in Quezon City in the Philippines, points out that Filipinos use a variety of sources to achieve that acidic hit.
鈥淔ilipinos have a deep love for three main flavour profiles, particularly sweet, salty and sour,鈥 says Vencio, who is slated to open his Filipino restaurant, AmBoy, in Pittsburgh, in late spring.
鈥淪our is just ingrained in our palate.鈥
Filipinos use not only vinegars from different sources but also underripe fruits, such as tamarind, to add acidity.
Some will make their own condiments to add to foods, Vencio says, usually using some type of vinegar.
Filipino vinegar can be made from cane, coconut or palm. The type employed depends largely on regional custom and personal taste.
Spanish colonisers expanded the Philippines鈥 indigenous sugar cane plantations, and sugar cane remains an economically significant crop in the country.
Cane vinegar is the most common type used.
For their condiment or dipping sauce 鈥 called sukang sawsawan 鈥 Filipinos up the acid ante by adding the native citrus fruit calamansi, also known as a Philippine lemon.
Fish sauce, soy sauce, garlic, peppercorns, onion and chillies are also common components.
鈥淓ssentially, what we do is we鈥檙e compounding acidity,鈥 Vencio says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 how we make the sour flavour profile more robust and more complex.鈥
Personal condiments are used to adapt all types of dishes, but especially seafood. They can be a dipping sauce for crab, for instance, or fried fish or pork.
Pittsburgh-based Kimberley Ashlee Haugh, of Kimberley Ashlee & Co catering, calls Filipino cooking 鈥渢he original fusion cuisine鈥 because it integrates influences from Chinese, Spanish, Indo-Malay and American cultures.
However, adobo, considered the unofficial Filipino national dish, is uniquely Filipino and has indigenous roots.
Although the name comes from the Spanish word adobar, meaning 鈥渢o marinate鈥, the dish 鈥 chicken or pork braised in vinegar 鈥 predates the arrival of Spanish colonisers.
Vinegar is essential to adobo, Vencio says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not noticeable, but it鈥檚 there.鈥
With cooking, vinegar鈥檚 sharpness mellows. Vencio says vinegar鈥檚 role in the dish was partly to preserve the meat, especially back in times when refrigeration was not available. It also balances adobo鈥檚 saltiness.
Cane vinegar, which Haugh describes as 鈥渃lean鈥 and 鈥渂right鈥, is most commonly used for adobo, as well as for a dish called paksiw, fish or pork cooked in a sour-and-savoury broth containing vinegar.
Coconut vinegar 鈥 which can be made from fermented coconut juice, sap or blossoms 鈥 is 鈥渟ofter鈥 and 鈥渞ounder鈥 than cane vinegar, Haugh says, and is traditionally used often in the southern Philippines.
Haugh recalls a vinegar drink her grandmother made, both to quench thirst and aid digestion. Haugh compares it to the apple cider vinegar craze in the US or to Filipino-style kombucha.
鈥淚 remember my grandmother, when she would have these vinegar drinks, you would put things in it like green mango, pineapple or guava,鈥 Haugh says, 鈥渁nd you would mix it with a little bit of water and sugar.鈥
Cane or coconut vinegar is used to make a Filipino ceviche, called kinilaw; fish is 鈥渃ooked鈥 in vinegar rather than Latin-style citrus. It is often mixed with calamansi, ginger, chilli and coconut milk.
Haugh describes palm vinegar as 鈥渆arthy鈥, adding that it has 鈥渁 subtle sweetness鈥.
Calamansi is a citrus fruit native to the Philippines that often accompanies vinegar in Filipino dishes.
As someone who grew up in Toronto, Canada, slightly ashamed of bringing her aromatic Filipino lunches to school, Haugh finds it gratifying that Filipino cuisine is finding acceptance.
鈥淚f you were to tell the 10-year-old me that Filipino food would actually be something that people are interested in, I wouldn鈥檛 have believed it,鈥 she says.
Her ultimate moment of sharing Filipino cuisine with an American audience came at a charity dinner for the O鈥橬oir Foundation 鈥 which helps young homeless and displaced LGBTQ people 鈥 featuring chefs cooking black-coloured food.
She decided to make one of her favourite dishes, dinuguan, featuring various cuts of pork stewed in pig鈥檚 blood and vinegar, among other ingredients.
鈥淚 was like, 鈥業鈥檓 going to do it. I鈥檓 going to go for it. I鈥檓 going to serve a bunch of non-Filipinos a stew made of pig, cooked in pig鈥檚 blood with a splash of vinegar,鈥欌 she says.
The 10-year-old Haugh would have been amazed.
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